Gorak Shep to Everest Base Camp

Today would be a relatively short day heading up towards the Everest Base Camp.  The path was rough and fairly narrow and undulated along the side of the valley.  As per normal now the views were stunning with mountains towering above.

The path undulated (as usual!) along the rocky moraine/scree.  The path was very busy from EBC.  After the accident lots of teams had abandoned the mountain.  The Discovery channel had planned a major broadcast over 7 nights (A sort of springwatch, Everest Live), but this had been cancelled.  We saw lots of equipment being carried down, showing how big an operation it had been.

Lobuche to Gorak Shep

Today was due to be a big day.  A walk to Gorak Shep, breaking 5000m and a possible climb up Kala Patthar.  I was feeling good, and doing a lot better than I thought I would be. The day before had been great and at times I had been 'flying'.

A few hours later and I was back down with a bump.  The walk to Gorak Shep isn't that hard, it climbs around 200m over a few hours with only one notable climb.  For the first hour the trek is fairly flat before a short steep climb onto a glacier.

Dingboche to Lobuche

After the relaxing rest day we were back on the move.  A short but sharp climb out of Dingboche followed the same path as the acclimatization hike the day before.  It was still as steep and got the blood flowing early in the morning. 

The valley was fairly gradual and it was a good walk surrounded by high mountains.  Summer pastures and huts provides shelter to the Yaks and Yak men during the summer months.  We passed above the village of Pheriche in the deep valley below, in a few days time we would be returning via a tea house below. 

Dingboche Rest Day

Today we had an acclimatisation day in Dingboche.  As it was a nice rest day we were allowed a 30 minute lie in!  The acclimatisation walk today headed up a ridge covered in prayer flags and chortens.  The views are incredible, Ama Dablam, Lhotse, Taboche, Cholatse and the seemingly small Island peak (only 6100m!).

 

Whilst only a short walk in distance, you can get pretty high (4700m).  The afternoon was spent on the kindle and generally resting.

 

Tengbouche to Dingboche

Today had a gentle start, dropping down from Tengbouche to the village of Debouche.  The path was mainly through woods dropping down to an old bridge across the river.  This fairly substantial bridge collapsed last year in the monsoon, so we carried on down lower to cross a temporary wooden bridge.

This section of the path is prone to landslips and rock falls, so there was no pausing or rest stops!  After the wooden bridge the path climbed steeply to regain some of the lost height.  Ama Dablam is again the biggest and most majestic mountain looking over us.

Kjangjuma to Tengboche

The day started fairly easily, undulating along with great views down the steep valley.  We had great
views of Ama Dablam, which is a superb looking peak and looks just like a mountain should!  The glacier on top is massive and looks like it could collapse at any moment!

Today was a lot warmer at around 20 degrees, so we were back in t-shirts.  The path undulated gently along before dropping steeply to another suspension bridge at Phunki Tenga.  This place is famous for its water powered prayer wheels; unfortunately most appeared to be broken.  We then began another steep climb.

Namche Bazzar to Kyangjuma

Most guides recommend a 2 night stay in Namche Bazzar to help with acclimatisation, but we only stayed 1 and then moved onto Kyangjuma.   This small town is slightly higher than Namche Bazzar but a couple of hours down the trail. 

We headed up and out of Namche Bazzar towards the Shyanboche airstrip.  This is a hard steep climb to start the day with and certainly gets the heart going.  Some of our group were beginning to see signs of mild AMS, this included people much fitter than I.  This shows how variable altitude is on the body, it truly is a lottery.

Phakding to Namche Bazzar

We had an early start to the day, woke at 06.30 with a cup of tea.  This was the standard practice, a nice hot cup of tea followed by a check from the Leader (Sukman) around 15 mins later.  He was looking for signs of any altitude issues, and to get us out of bed!

Today would be a much harder day and one I was fearing.  I had no idea how I would cope with the altitude and I knew that the climb into Namche Bazzar was a fairly tough steep climb of around 600m.  I know I struggle on steep hills so I had some trepidation. 

Lukla to Phakding

The day began in spectacular fashion with the infamous flight from Kathmandu to Lukla.  Renown as one of the most dangerous airports in the world (combined with the fact that the EU has banned every Nepali airline for safety reasons), there was more of a sense of anticipation/apprehension than a normal flight. 

It was a lovely clear day and by all accounts there were great views over the mountains and Everest.  These views are very dependent on what seat you can grab!  The left hand side or front row is the best.   The flight is short and sweet but the landing is even shorter!   Lukla’s runway is a one shot only affair, you either get it right or crash, there are no second chances.

#59 Illgill Head, Whin Rigg and Miterdale

12.37 Miles
910 Metres Ascent
13/03/14

The fog had rolled in the previous evening and by the morning the tent was covered in condensation, inside and out.  This led to a slightly slower start to the day.  After the previous walk I had expected to wake with sore legs, but I felt surprisingly OK.  There is a danger that I’m actually getting fitter.

Today’s walk was planned to be easier (in ascent not mileage) than the previous two days and with the murky weather it seemed to fit quite nicely.  Heading from the campsite up past Brackenclose the path climbs steadily up past Fence Wood.  The path is well used and maintained; in fact it was so clear I actually walked past my planned route and kept on going.

#58 The Mosedale Horseshoe

12.43 Miles
1102 Metres Ascent
12/03/14

Today was going to be a big walk and the weather was firmly on my side.  Clear blue skies for the second day in a row.  I couldn’t believe my luck.  I was woken up early by the sound of a Sea King buzzing around Scarfell.  I had hoped it was an exercise, but the time of day suggested otherwise.  (I learnt later it was looking for a missing walker, who was sadly found later at the bottom of a waterfall).

Heading out from the campsite, I followed the bridle path towards Wasdale.  This involved crossing a river, luckily it wasn’t flowing to strongly, though I still got wet feet.   The route passes the Wasdale Head Inn and the bottom of Kirk Fell.  This is an option on this walk but the path straight up Kirk fell just looked ridiculous!  

#57 Scarfell Pike (nearly!)

5.47 Miles
770 Metres Ascent
11/03/14

After a long drive I arrived at the edge of Wast Water and was blown away by the view.  The valley is stunning, especially in the sun, and its hard to drive without sneaking a few looks at the hills I'll soon be climbing up.  I camped at the Wasdale National trust campsite (great location and great site), and by the time I had set up the tent it was already 3pm.

This gave me approx. 3 hours before sunset.  This wasn't the ideal situation to try a walk up England's highest peak, however with a fully planned few days, it was my only chance.  I gave myself a turn around time of about 5 and would see how far I would get.

#55 Kinder Low to Mam Tor

16.28 Miles
1048 Metres Ascent
07/03/14

“I want to go for a walk”

“Ok, could do Barton Hills?”

“I want something hard work”

“Peaks are nearest, but its 3 hours away?”

“I’ll drive”

“Really?  Ok I have a 13.5 miler in mind”

So the day was planned.  James volunteered to drive and I came up with something a decent length with a healthy amount of up’s.   I guessed about 5 and a half hours of walking, which is a decent amount for us.

Challenge Update - The End of Winter

Ok winter is over! It's all sunshine from now on?  Right?  I can wish can't I?

Things have been a bit damp, to say the least.  However, I have managed 8 walks over the month, but I could and should of done more.  I had the chance to do at least 4-5 more walks but due to one thing or another they just didn't happen. 

Still, it was the most miles in a month I have ever done.

February - 89.47 miles and 3147 metres ascent.

January - 44.4 miles and 1303 metres ascent.
December - 71.49 miles and 1724 metres ascent.
November - 44.07 miles and 1857 metres ascent.
October - 27.97 miles and 643 metres ascent.
September - 71.40 miles and 4129 metres ascent.
August - 62.63 miles and 913 metres ascent.
July - 16.24 miles and 258 metres ascent.
June -  82.05 miles and 1063 metres ascent.

#49 Whitworth to Todmorden

14.04 Miles
744 Metres Ascent
03/02/14

For once I had time on my side and had no real deadline.  I had this route in mind for a while but due to one thing and another I hadn’t got round to it.  The weather was OK, overcast and windy but it wasn’t raining!

The first part of the route was very familiar, up the rake and around the top of Watergrove.   Things are still very wet but the Pennine bridleway is probably the best track in the region.  I decided to climb Clay Pots hill as an added extra.  It seemed a good idea at the time, adding about 2 miles and 200 metres to the day.

Rooley Moor

12.3 Miles
447 Metres Ascent
02/02/14

Another day and another tight deadline.  I had pretty much 4hrs to do something with.  So a ‘dash’ up Rooley Moor was in order.  As I’ve said in the past, this is a good hard track that takes you up and over the moors.

 

It was windy again but dry.  The sun even came out at a few points!  There were a few points I could have done with sunglasses, which after yesterday was a shock to the system. 

Why am I enjoying this?

10.87 Miles
363 Metres Ascent
01/02/14

It’s past 6pm.   Sunset was over an hour ago.   The wind is gusting to 40mph.  It is 4°C without adding the wind-chill and it’s raining.  Why am I walking across the moors above Whitworth?  And why am I enjoying this?

 

I was back on familiar turf above Whitworth and Watergrove, after spending a good part of the day driving.  I had planned something longer, but my usual lateness was compounded by a strict home by 7pm deadline (When your mum tells you your tea will be on the table at 7, it’s the sort of deadline you can’t afford to miss!).

#45 Watergrove to Calderbrook

10.87 Miles
363 Metres Ascent

I had planned a few routes for the next 3 days and it’s only typical that I had to change these plans at the last minute!   Family ‘bookings’ meant I could initially stay out until 1, but this changed to 12.30 by the night before.  In the end I was out of the house by 8am, on a cold dank morning.  The stream running down the middle of the road from the rake was an early indicator of the moisture content of the hills above!

 

The changed plan meant I was going to walk for approx. an hour and a half, then turn around, retrace my steps before a little loop to add a few more miles in.  Not a pretty solution by any means but it was easy to plan and also meant I had a good idea of my times.

Challenge Update - End of the year! Roll on 2014

All things considered, December has been a decent month with 7 walks.  Admittedly they have mostly been fairly uninspiring local walks but at least I'm out and about!  Fitting stuff in while working silly hours is still an issue, but the money is always good.

Unfortunately most of the local walks are pretty waterlogged so it can be hard to get motivated for something muddy and slippy that doesn't offer much in the way of views and adventure.  I still need more hills to climb, so January will involve a bit more travel!

December - 71.49 miles and 1724 metres ascent.

November - 44.07 miles and 1857 metres ascent.
October - 27.97 miles and 643 metres ascent.
September - 71.40 miles and 4129 metres ascent.
August - 62.63 miles and 913 metres ascent.
July - 16.24 miles and 258 metres ascent.
June -  82.05 miles and 1063 metres ascent.

#39 Barton Hills

10.87 Miles
273 Metres Ascent

Back into the Barton Hills for a muddy adventure!  Bedfordshire generally has two types of mud, claggy boot clinging mud across some fields and slippy slidey gloop along tracks.  This walk happily had both!  The day was unseasonably warm above 10c, so I managed with just a shirt.  Layering is proving complicated this season.

From Deacon Hill

I followed the same route as this walk in May.  With a slight variation up to the top of Deacon Hill to eat a pork pie, well you can't eat a pork pie without reaching the top of something can you!  This hill has great views over towards Bedford, and could be a good wild camp spot, although the beer cans in the bushes suggest it wouldn't be quiet in summer...!