JMT Post-mortem

My JMT adventure was a series of up and down moments.  I had a great time and a few ‘moments’ too.  The JMT is a great walk and one that I will complete.  I completed around 50 miles on this trip and it was quite stunning, yet I know the best is regarded to be later along the trail.

I was (to be blunt) too big/fat to do the trek justice.  I struggled badly on the hills and this made me very slow.  I was walking 7-8 hours yet at times felt like I was treading water.  Whilst I had no great schedule that I had to stick to, there are practical issues to going so slow.  You need enough food and fuel basically.

Little Yosemite Valley to Sunrise Creek

8.39 Miles
748m Ascent

I had a much better night’s sleep, probably due to being tired, all that fresh air!  The campground was awake early, but it was after 9 before I got going.  My lack of training was reflected in my lack of camp routine.  I was just slow getting organised. 

The trail heads up towards Half Dome and hits a nice 300m climb up switch backs within half a mile of the camp.  Despite being fairly early it was getting warm quickly.  Something I was worried about.  My pack felt good and didn’t feel overly heavy, yet my pace was stupidly slow.

Glacier Point to Little Yosemite Valley

9.38 Miles

377m Ascent 

After a restless night’s sleep (it was too warm!)  I caught the bus up to Glacier Point to start my adventures. The plan had been changed the day before after getting my Wilderness Permit.  I had planned to have an easy day (partly to help acclimatise) and have a 4 mile walk down to Illilouette creek.  However, the ranger had pretty much insisted that I head straight to Little Yosemite Valley.

The change added around 5 miles to the day and a good increase on elevation.  I underestimated how warm it is in the valley, this despite previous visits at similar times in the year.  My thermometer was above 30 degrees for most of the day.  It hit me hard.  I was using Nuun on every drink, and by having a Sawyer squeeze I had plenty of water.

Gearing up for the John Muir Trail

It has to be said, it doesn't take much for me to justify in my head buying new gear.  So a big trip to the USA is more than the perfect excuse to look at some different options.    The main requirements are to cut weight, but retain as much function/comfort as I can.  The weight issue is a high priority, as I could be carrying 8+ kgs of food towards the end of the trip.  That alone could double the weight I'm carrying.

Though it has to be said, back in the day (the hazy memories of DofE) the rule of thumb was no more than a third of your bodyweight.  Now even using my ideal weight as opposed to the real weight, it would give me a max weight of about 25kgs.  I'm aiming for about 8kgs + 8kgs (food) + 2kgs (water) = 18kgs at its max.  The lighter it is, the easier it is.

Initial Food ideas for the John Muir Trail

Food on the trail can be an issue on any long distance hike, you need a certain amount of calories at the lightest weight you can.  On the John Muir Trail (JMT) there is an added issue of the lack of resupply in the second half of the trail, meaning I will have to carry all the food I need for around 8-9 days.  

On most English trails I doubt you would go for more than a couple of days without finding a pub or shop to buy food from.  On the JMT there will be nothing for 110 miles between the Muir Trail Ranch and Mount Whitney.

This means I have to actually think about the food in detail.  It needs to have enough calories to keep me going and be light enough to actually carry.  There are different approaches, from carrying numerous energy and chocolate bars (and that’s it) to carrying the kitchen sink.  Neither of those ideas appeals to me.

John Muir Trail – Outline Plan

The John Muir Trail (JMT) requires a certain amount of planning due to its location and the logistics involved.   For an overseas visitor you have extra issues to deal with, such as where to fly to, buying food in country, transport and accommodation before and after the trek.  On top of that there is the usual issues and saving enough money and booking time off work. 

My current plan involves me being in the USA from the 31^st Aug to the 2^nd Oct with 21 days on the trail, including any rest days.  My plan is to have at least 1 rest day at either the Muir Trail Ranch (MTR) or the Vermillion Valley Resort (VVR).  My preferred starting point is from Glacier Point, but the permit system restricts trailheads so I might have to go with whatever I get.

The Glacier point trailhead means I will likely spend the first night off the JMT.  I have walked this section (Panorama trail -from Glacier Point to Nevada Falls) and the ‘normal’ JMT route via Happy Valley to Nevada falls (Mist Trail and JMT) before.  The Mist trail is steeper, more steps and a lot busier with day hikers, in some sections there can be queues depending on the time of day.

The John Muir Trail 2014

I suppose it’s time to announce the big trip for 2014.  Whilst it’s hardly been a secret, I had nothing ‘official’ in place.  In September 2014 I will hopefully be walking (and completing) the John Muir Trail (JMT) in California, USA.

The start of the John Muir Trail.

The JMT is a 211 mile long trail through the wilderness with a total elevation gain of approximately 14,000m.  The trail starts in Yosemite Valley and ends on top of the highest point in the contiguous USA, Mount Whitney (4,421 m).  However, from the end of the trail it’s another 11 miles to Whitney Portal, where a café and burger awaits!

#1 Panorama Trail, Yosemite

#1 Panorama Trail, Yosemite, USA.

Distance - 8.5 Miles (13.7Km)
Ascent - 300m (About 1000m of descent!)

Well I decided to start the challenge in a good way and there are few day walks in the world with as spectacular views as the Panorama Trail in Yosemite.  Yes it is that good.  Starting at Glacier Point you have views over Half Dome, Vernal and Nevada Falls and the Valley floor.  Yosemite enchanted John Muir, and it doesn't take much to see why.  It is an amazing place and that's with only seeing a small tiny part of this wilderness. 



From Glacier Point

The trail is well marked and in great condition.  It begins by dropping from Glacier Point down to Illilouete Falls over approx. 2.5 miles.  The views over Half Dome are spectacular.

2011 Highlights Part 3

September saw me manage to get 4 weeks off work and head out to the USA for a tour up the west coast to Seattle and back down again through the middle of the country. After 2 days up the coast we headed inland to Yosemite. I had been here 2 years before and it was just as spectacular. Last time was in April and there was ice on the ground making the mist trail treacherous. This time it was over 30 degrees C and for this pale skinned English boy it may of been too much!

The Panorama Trail was an 8.5 Mile hike from Glacier Point down to the valley bottom at Happy Isles Bridge. With 375m of uphill and 1325m of downhill it put a lot of strain on my (as usual) untrained legs. The trail starts with a nice downhill section for 2.2 miles to Illilouette Creek and things were going well for the group. The next 2 miles was a 200m climb which I have to say was knackering! Panorama Point does what it suggests and the view are mind blowing, with half dome towering over all the Valley.

The trail breaks out on to the idyllic but deadly Nevada falls, a couple had gone over the edge months before, their bodies never found. The water was high due to the unusually heavy snows and long melt season. From this point it was mostly downhill, and in my mind that usually means the easy bit...

Unfortunately with 3 litres of water already drunk and the 2 bottles empty the heat was still taking its toil and the beautiful walk down from Nevada falls turned it to a trudge and a slog. I had a touch of heat stroke (obvious by the fact I was feeling cold!) combined with what seemed like a relentless number of steps. All in all the last 3 miles were horrible! The only satisfaction was that most of the group of 12 couldn't walk the next day! Those steps downhill were a killer on the thighs! Today mostly fuelled by Walmart m&m trail mix and Ibuprofen.

(And yes I did wear a hat!)